February 25th, 2008 By Jenna Walker
East Side Review: Zuki

A new Japanese restaurant has recently opened in Evansville: Zuki Japanese Hibachi Grill & Sushi Lounge. Located behind Rafferty’s, where Wasabi used to be housed, sits a vibrant Zuki.
The interior of this new restaurants certainly fits an upscale, lounge-type atmosphere. You first notice the color: a vibrant red with black trim. Two rooms are situated with the hibachi style cooking, I believe it was 4 grill-tables per room. Separating the two rooms was a wall with two large glass windows that served to supply a calming zen effect to the customers—they were light blue glass with water pouring over them. The sushi portion of the restaurant was separated to the right with it’s own two seating areas. One was primarily the sushi bar where one can watch over the chef’s artistry while he prepares your sushi, or there was a half wall separating most the tables from the bar area. I saw several rooms down a hall that I presume are private party rooms.
The menu is not very large but covers the array from appetizers to hibachi entrees, to sushi dinners and sushi “a la carte.” Besides the most obvious cuisine here, they also offer noodles (udon, soba, and ramen) and a vast amount of appetizers—tempura, edamame, grilled squid, and much much more. Their appetizer portion of the menu is almost as large as the whole menu combined. We choose the special Zuki Fried Shrimp appetizer that came with five jumbo shrimp breaded in panko (Japanese bread crumbs) with a sweet yet slightly tart brown sauce drizzled over it—perhaps the house version of ponzu sauce? Ponzu or not, the sauce combined with those shrimp was delicious. We opted for sushi over hibachi that night and was seated against the half wall near the window—it was a nice spot with one exception, my chair partly stuck into the entry way of that section, giving me the feeling I was in the way.
With our ability to eat a lot of sushi, we ordered 3 rolls (Spicy Tuna, Yumy Yummy, and Volcano) and 4 nigiri (tuna, salmon, and snapper). The Spicy Tuna Roll was the “other” take on the style of making it. Instead of a slice of tuna in the roll with spicy sauce drizzled over it, it was tuna finely ground and mixed with an extremely spicy sauce, rolled, and topped with sesame seeds. This isn’t my favorite way of eating this roll since the texture comes across as so mushy, also, for me, it was way too spicy, and that’s not something I often say. The Yumy Yummy Roll was along the lines of mango, cucumber, avocado, and salmon (apologies, I can’t be for sure since I’m lacking a menu). This was really a soothing roll, nothing was over-powering. Finally, the Volcano Roll was tuna, avocado, and cream cheese rolled in rice with salmon on top and drizzled in a spicy orange sauce and the brown “ponzu” sauce. This was my favorite of the night, and while it was still extremely spicy, the sweetness of the “ponzu” sauce and creaminess of the cream cheese helped to tone it down more than it had been in the spicy tuna.
All in all there were things I did like and things I didn’t like. What I did like was their relatively upscale, zen decor and to-the-point menu that gives me the impression that they are concentrating on their cuisine to give the customers their best. Also, I loved my appetizer and most of the sushi was pretty good. What I didn’t like was the lopsided service—I think we had two waiters who weren’t in sync with each other in watching our table, but in the end we got what we wanted and needed. Also, I think the fish could have been a little colder and a little fresher, though it was much more fresh than other places in town—and that ground tuna, that’s a no-no in my book. Finally, one small thing that really irked me were the chopsticks. The restaurant was coming across as upscale and zen, yet the chopsticks were the wooden kind that you have to break apart. This really turned me off since it seemed they should have been metal or lacquered; the wooden ones were very down scale and proved hard to use with sushi—plus I can’t stand when I can taste the wood against the flavor of the food in my mouth.
Overall, I’d come back to get sushi, and I am definitely going back soon to try the hibachi, which I’ll update the site about. I think the pro’s outweighed the cons at Zuki. I’ll be back and hope to see you there.
**Update:* See our followup review on the hibachi dinner.
Zuki is located at 1448 N. Green River Rd., behind Rafferty’s. (812) 477-ZUKI. Mon-Sat 11am-2pm, 4pm-10pm; Sun 11am-9pm.














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